[Vol. XII, pages 90–108]
(County of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presbytery of Irvine)
By the Rev. Mr. John Fullarton.
Name, Extent, Situation and Soil.
Dalry is said to signify “King's Valley.” It gives a title to the Earl of Glasgow. It is about 9 English miles from N to S, and nearly the same distance from E to W. The village of Dalry, where the parish church stands, is situated on the west side of the parish, and is about a quarter of a mile distant from the parish of Kilwinning; in that direction, the 2 parishes being divided by a small water. Perhaps some regard to waters was paid in the first division of parishes, and when bridges were not so common as now they are. From this situation of the village and parish church, may of the inhabitants of the parish are obliged to travel to kirk and market from considerable distances. The village is much admired by strangers for its situation. It [91] is situated on a rising ground, with a commanding prospect to the S and an extensive view to the NE. It is almost surrounded by waters, and these run in their different directions, so near the village, that when extraordinary rains fall, and waters swell, the village, when viewed from a distance, puts on the appearance of an island; but from its elevated situation, is never, at any time in danger, even from the greatest floods. The soil varies much, according to the different situations of the grounds. All the flat grounds lying along the water of Garnock, are in general a deep loamy soil, with a dry bottom, and from their being often overflowed with water, they are evidently enriched by the slime and mud left upon them; and the farmer has often experienced good crops from this very circumstance alone. Trench ploughing, or hand trenching of such ground, would assuredly turn out to advantage, as the soil below seems equally good, and with a small help of dung or lime, would soon become better that the upper soil, that has been long cultivated. But a [92] trial of this has not been made. But the greatest quantity of ground in the parish, is of a very different quality, much inclined to clay of different colours, and of a tilly, wet bottom. There is also a good deal of moss–ground, not only in the hilly part of the parish, but also in the lower parts of it. Some of which, has of late, by a sensible process, been brought from its natural state, to bear very good crops, both of oats and grass, and this, by digging it with a spade in winter, and exposing it to the frost, ridging it up, and allowing proper drains and furrows, throwing some quick lime upon it, and harrowing it in with the seed: The digging repeated 2, sometimes 3 years, then sowing grass–seeds upon it, either with a view to eat or to feed, and from its not being formerly worth a 6d, or indeed any thing, the acre, by this process, it has become equal in value, to most of the grounds that lie around it. The expense of digging, ridging, and draining, does not exceed £2 the acre the first year, and £1 6s the two following. The proprietors of such grounds, are so fully sensible of the advantages of such a process, that in a few years it is expected, that a great part of them will be made fit to bear very good crops both of oats and grass.
Division and Rents.
Within these 40 years past, the greatest part, if not almost the whole of the parish, has been enclosed. When enclosing first began, it was effected with some difficulty, as the adjoining heritors or tenants, were not only unwilling to bear half of the expense, but could not think of being deprived of a liberty they had long been accustomed to take, of pasturing their cattle upon their neighbour's ground, which was often of more advantage to their cattle, than feeding upon their own. But when they got the better of these selfish views, which they soon did, a spirit of enclosing took place, as they evidently perceived, that enclosing, not [93] only preserved every man's property entire, but was useful to the ground itself, by keeping it from being potched in winter and spring; the enclosures keeping the ground warmer, and affording shelter to their cattle, both in the heat of summer, and from the cold in winter. Sensible of these, and other advantages, enclosing went rapidly on, either at the expense of the proprietor, or of his tenants. And so eager have tenants been, for a long while past, about it, that they have not only their grounds in general enclosed, but properly subdivided, and scruple not to pay the interest of the money, the proprietor of the lands lays out in such enclosings, even to 5, and sometimes to 7½ per cent., according to the different fences made. In the low part of the parish, the enclosures are mostly ditches of different wideness, and rows of thorns sometimes mixed with some ash or beeches, which, when they thrive, give good shelter to the ground. The moor farms of the parish, are all enclosed with stone fences of different heights. The farms, in general, are not large in the low part of the parish. They seldom exceed £60 in rent, and many let at £20, £10, and some even lower. The moor farms being more extensive, let from £100 to £200, and even more. The grounds in the low part of the parish, that lie along the waters, are never rented below £1, and some such, are also rented at £1 10s the acre, and sometimes above that. The grounds adjoining to these, and of a different quality, are, in general, rented from 12s to 15s the acre. The moor farms where there is tolerable good grass, and no heath, about 7s 6d the acre. The heath pasture is not generally let by the acre, but by the lump. The valued rent of the parish is £6538 14s Scots; the real rent about £6350 Sterling. The number of heritors may be about 90. Only one considerable landowner resides, and who possesses, I suppose, not much less than one–third [94] of the parish. There are also some others who possess pretty good estates; of whom, some reside.
Agriculture, &c.
The method of farming is a good deal improved within these 20 years. Before that period, farmers thought they could not plough enough, even though they had but too frequently, very poor returns for their work and expense. But they have seen their mistake. And every intelligent farmer not among us, seldom thinks of opening his ground, till it has rested 4, and sometimes 6 years, and even then, to enrich it with dung or lime. Tenants, in general, are bound, and they look on it as no hardship, to have no more than a third of their ground in tillage. Their outfield land, which, in general, is well limed (to the extent of 160 bolls an acre, and sometimes more, each boll containing 5 Winchester bushels) commonly produces 2 crops of oats, with a crop of rye–grass succeeding, and is afterward turned to pasture. The infield land or crofting, is that on which they lay most of the dung they make from their own cattle (for dung is not to be bought) and raise 3 crops from it, bear, oats, and beans, and then return to dunging again. As bear is a very uncertain crop, both by reason of the bulk of the land being inclined to clay, and a wet bottom, and also to the great quantity of rain that generally falls, about the end of summer, and the beginning of harvest, this being the case, many farmers have adopted another metho, and, I believe, much to their advantage, viz. of laying their dung upon their outfield or poorest ground, allowing 2 acres about the same quantity of dung, they would have given to 1 acre of bear, and taking 2 crops of oats, and sometimes 1 of rye–grass hay; and in this way, their future grazing crops on such land, are much improved, and the whole farm in process of time, is brought into a state of improvement. And, as many are falling [95] in with this method, there is now very little bear raised for the market, but only a small quantity for family use. Indeed, oats is the crop most to be depended on by the farmer, as being a more hardy grain than bear, a more certain crop, and always commanding a ready market. Pease are seldom sown. Though luxuriant crops of them can be raised, yet the rains that generally fall about the autumnal equinox, lays them flat with the ground, to the loss of both grain and fodder. Beans are sown by many farmers, only in small quantities. From the grounds along the water, large crops are got. Wheat is not sown by the common farmers, though some gentlemen in the parish sow it in small quantities for family use, and have returns from 30 to 40 Winchester bushels the acre. It is sown after a fallow or potatoe [sic] crop, and the seed generally ploughed down with a shallow furrow, and lightly harrowed. This method is preferred, as hereby the seed being deeper buried, winter or spring frosts, are not so ready to thrown out the plants; and it is also thought, that if the crop is luxuriant, by having a deep hold of the ground, it is not so apt to lodge. Clover–seeds are but seldom sown. A few who sow them, after proper preparation, have found great profit from them, both in enriching their hay crops, and adding greatly to the value of pasture–grass. It can scarcely be told, to what extent, an acre of good red clover will go, in feeding cows and horses in the house, when 2 or 3 crops are taken from it. There is surely no such cheap way of feeding horses in summer, and having plenty of milk from cows, as by allowing them red clover in abundance, not to mention the dung that is hereby saved. But, till cleansing the ground from weeds by fallowing, be more frequent than it is, little advantage will be gained by sowing of clover–seeds. Fallowin is not practised in this parish by common farmers, but by a few gentlemen it is going on, and whether [96] it will influence others to follow their example, time will show. If they were to adopt it, certainly their grounds would be much better prepared for succeeding crops. Flax is sown chiefly for family use, and but seldom for market. Turnip–farming was only introduced into the parish last year. The gentleman who introduced it, has succeeded, himself, in having a large crop, which probably will induce others to follow his example. Potatoes is a crop universally raised by every farmer, but seldom to any further extent, that barely for the scanty use of his own family. But I have long thought, that every farmer might profitably consume, the double or triple of the potatoes, he commonly raises. If he were to cultivate but one acre yearly, what a large provision does he lay in for the support of man and beast? One acre, if properly cultivated, will, on an average, yield 40 bolls, at 8 Winchester bushels the boll, each bushel heaped. And even more bolls will be got, if the ground is good on which they are planted, and proper dunging and cultivation given. I have know a large family, not under 15, plentifully supplied for 6 months in the year, with a large quantity given every day to 2 or 3 horses instead of corn in the winter months, and also to cows and poultry, and after all, selling £5 worth of them that remained, and all from the produce of 1 acre. No such valuable crop then can be raised, and when freely given, will fatten cows, horses, hogs, and poultry, to any degree you desire. An acre of potatoes of 40 bolls, at the low price of 1s the bushel, is £16. It were to be wished, therefore, that farmers were more attentive to their interest, and plant more potatoes than they commonly do. The implements of husbandry [97] for carrying on the common method of farming, are but few: The old Scotch plough, drawn with 4 horses; a brake harrow drawn by 2; and common harrows for each horse. A few have rollers for breaking of clods and smoothing the ground. Some gentlemen in the parish who practise fallowing and turnip–farming, have English, and East Country ploughs of a light construction, drawn by 2 horses, and 1 man holds and drives the plough. But till the ground undergo a different cultivation from what it has yet done, and be cleared of stones, with which it abounds, the old Scotch plough must be better adapted to the present mode of cultivation, than the English plough can be. As the grain that is raised in the parish is, in general, consumed in it, and few farmers have much to want after maintaining their own families, this cannot be called a corn country, when so little of their grain is brought to market. The parish, in general, is better adapted for grass than for corn. What a pity then it is, that better methods were not fallen on to improve the grass? This will not be done, till the ground be properly prepared by fallowing, cleansed well from its old [98] roots, and proper grass–seeds thrown into it. It is by grass that the farmer at present pays his rent; all pains, therefore, should be taken to improve it. For some years past, the profits of the dairy have been great; and it may be said with certainty (if we except the moor farms) that the rents of the parish are, in general, paid from the butter and cheese made in it. The grazing farms in the parish, are employed either in fattening Highland cows, to the extent of about 300, or rearing up young ones, for the tenant himself, or for others, and at the prices, from 12s to 15s for 1 year old, and from 20s to 24s for 2 and 3 year olds, and that from the 1st of May to the 1st of November. The sheep or heath farms in the parish are but few; the stock of the whole amounting to about 1200. The sheep are of a small size, and the wool not of a fine quality; when fattened, are generally sold to the Paisley or Glasgow markets. Few sheep are kept in the low grounds since enclosing took place. [99]
Cows and Horses
The cows and horses kept by the farmers, are in proportion to the extent of their farms. To do them justice, they do not overstock their farms, as in former times. They find it their interest, to keep no more cattle than they can fully maintain, otherwise their horses would not rise to the prices they are at, nor their cows give so much milk as they do. When a farmer has stocked himself with cows, he seldom thinks of going to market again for more, but raises up young ones to supply the room of those that are old, and keeps up his stock by his own rearing. The breed of cows is greatly improved from what they were. At present, the farmer can sell his cows form £6 to £10 Sterling, and some even at higher prices. Having so much depending on a good kind, they spare no pains or cost to come at them. The young cows, now rearing in the parish, may be about 500, and milch cows about 1100. From each of which, on an average, may be got 12 stones of sweet milk [100] cheese, amounting in whole to 13,200 stones, the stone being 16 lb, and the pound 24 ounces. The cheese, in general, is of as good a quality as any made in the west country, and is mostly sold in the Greenock, Paisley, and Glasgow markets. The horses raised in the parish are but few. Those kept by the farmers, are generally young, and of a large size. The common wethod of supplying themselves is, they buy them when 2 or 3 years old, from the yearly market at Lanark, where large quantities are sold of all sizes. They keep them for 1 or 2 years, and with the easy work of ploughing their farms, with little more work they put them to, this with good feeding, raises them to a large size, and then they sell them, often at double the prices they bought them at; and in this way many farmers have considerably increased their stock. Many such horses have of late been sold from £30 to £40. The amount of horses in the parish may be about 300.
Roads and Bridges
The great roads in the parish are, by a proper attention of the trustees, in good repair, and all made by the statute–labour. The by–roads will probably also soon be attended to. And, as to bridges, few parishes can boast of having so many; no fewer than 9, great and small, are to be found within half a mile of the village, and those mostly built at the expense of the parish, which shows a proper attention to their own safety, as well as that of travellers; and much to their credit surely it is, as the village cannot be approached without crossing some water or burn, and on each of which a bridge is to be found.
Stipend, School, Poor, &c
There are 3 clergy men in the village of Dalry, the minister of the Established Church, of the Antiburgher, and the Burgher Seceders, both of whom [101] were established lately in the parish. There are no Episcopals; no Roman Catholics. The patron is Mr Blair of Blair. The manse and offices were built in 1766; the church in 1771; and an excellent school–house fit to accommodate 100 children, with an house to the schoolmaster, in 1790. All which buildings are in good order and repair. The stipend, one year with another, is about £97, including £50 Scots for communion elements, and exclusive of manse, and a glebe of about 7 Scots acres arable. The schoolmaster's salary is £81 10s Scots, he has a school–house, dwelling–house, and garden. The ground occupied for the same, was a present of 12 falls, made by David late Earl of Glasgow, to the heritors, about the year 1725. The schoolmaster has, at an average, about 60 scholars through the year. He teaches Latin, French, English, and Arithmetic; is session–clerk; has the charge of the poor's money; has perquisites from marriages and baptisms. The amount of his living, on the whole, may be about £30, a sum surely too inconsiderable to encourage a mad of education and ability, to undertake such a laborious and useful charge. And it is to be hoped, that heritors, not only in this, but in other parishes, will soon be inclined to hold out better encouragement to such a useful set of men. There is also a private school in the village, which has, at an average, about 30 attending it; besides some private schools in the country part of the parish. The number of poor who are maintained weekly from the poor's funds, may, at an average, be about 12, besides others who are occasionally supplied. They are supported by the collections on Sunday, mortcolth money, and the interest of a small stock they have on hand. The yearly sum expended may be about £54. There has not bee, for many years past, one in the parish that has gone about begging, yet plenty of such, from other parishes, are continually infesting us. Though, what our own poor get from [102] the parish–funds, may not always be sufficient fully to maintain them, yet, by their own little industry, with what they get, they are enabled to live with some degree of comfort. And, in cases of old age and sickness, more ample provisions are made for them. From 1s to 2s a week is generally allowed. And all this is conducted by the advice of the session, who make it their business to inquire into every one's particular necessities; and this they do with the greatest attention. Orphans and idiots are generally boarded at the yearly expense of £4, and sometimes a little more. The parish has not been assessed for the maintenance of the poor, so far back as can be remembered.
Baptisms in the year |
at an average, may be about |
50 |
Marriages in ditto |
ditto |
20 |
Burials in ditto |
ditto |
24 |
Coals, Lime, &c
There are 3 coal pits generally going, within less than a mile of the village. Coals are not sold by the weight, but by a measure called a hutch, 4 of which fills a cart, sufficient for an ordinary horse to draw, and the cart is bought at the pit for 2s. The seams of coal are different in thickness at the different pits, from 27 inches, to 5 feet 4 inches. The pits are not deep, from 3 to 22 fathoms. Coals abound so much in some parts of the parish, that farmers, in digging their ditches, often discover a thin seam, which they dig out for the use of their families, and sometimes also in such quantities, as are employed in burning limestones for their farms. Limestones also abound in many parts of the parish, in seams of considerable thickness. These are sold at different prices, according to the trouble that attends the working them, and in proportion to the quantity of lime they produce. The lowest price is 3d, and the highest 7d for a cart–load, or as [103] many as one horse can draw. A chalder of lime, or 80 Winchester bushels, is generally got from 4 such carts. Farmers generally burn their own lime for the use of the farm. Lime, when bought from those who prepare it for sale, is got for 6s 8d for the farm, and, when prepared for building, at 8s the chalder. Owing to the plenty and cheapness of lime, a free use is made of it by the farmer, this being the only manure that can be come at, as no dung can be bought, and no marl as yet discovered, so as to become of general use. Peat also abounds in many parts of the parish, so that many farmers provide themselves with such large quantities, as to depend alsmost wholly upon it for fuel. Peats, when sold, are at 14d or 15d the cart; and the cart is so constructed, as to hold a large quantity, no measure being in use for such an article. They who live at a distance from the moss, provide only a small quantity. Peats are generally employed in heating of milk for cheese–making, and in drying all kinds of grain for the mill. There is plenty of iron–stone in several parts of the parish, but none of it as yet wrought.
Manufactures
These are mostly confined to the village. Some years ago, when the silk manufacture flourished, there were above 100 silk weavers in the village, besides a few in the country part of the parish; and these were generally employed by the silk manufacturers in Paisley or Glasgow. But now the number of such weavers is greatly reduced, and cotton weaving has become the chief trade of the place. I have been at some pains to find out the numbers of men, women, and children now employed in the different branches of silk and cotton working; and they are as follows:
Silk weavers |
36 |
Women to prepare the silk yarn for the loom |
8 |
|
|
[104] Cotton weavers |
107 |
Women and children to prepare the yarn for the loom |
127 |
Some more than a year ago, a few belonging to the parish began the spinning of cotton on mule jennies, which they are still doing, having 15 constantly going, and a small carding mill which goes by water, for preparation, And as they mean to extend their work to the number of 30 jennies, they are now building a carding–mill on a larger scale, to go by water, to answer the purpose of preparation for the above number. The cotton yarn is not manufactured in the place, but is sent to the Paisley or Glasgow markets. Those at present employed in the above work, including men, women, and children may be about 50; and when the work is doubled, those employed will be in proportion. There is in the village, and country part of the parish, a sufficient number of common weavers, shoemakers, smiths, wrights, tailors, and those who sell grocery goods, and all kinds of men and women's apparel, of the best and finest kind. And as to ale and whisky–houses, of them there are more than is necessary, to the great prejudice of the temporal interest and morals of too many, and especially of those who can, with ease, earn from 2s to 3s a day; the prosperity of such persons often destroys them. The village is a most convenient situation for manufactures, on account of its healthy situation, easy rents, and cheap fuel, when compared with many places in the neighbourhood. And for carrying on a bleaching business, I suppose a more convenient situation cannot be found, having so many streams of water all around; but nothing of this kind has as yet been tried.
Population
According to Dr Websters's report, the number [105] of souls then was 1498. The present state of population, from a list that was lately taken, is as follows:
Examinable persons in the country part of the parish |
904 |
Not examinable (i.e. all below 6 or 7 years old) in ditto |
282 |
Examinable in the village |
607 |
Not examinable in ditto |
207 |
|
2000 |
The above list includes Seceders.
In the country part of the parish, the population has decreased during the last 30 years, owing to the enlarging of grazing farms, by which many tenants and cottagers were dislodged. But in the above period, the village has increased in population almost double, at least 300. And as the village has thus increased in population, so houses have been built in proportion, So that now, a number of new slated and well finished houses may be seen, suited to the manufactures that are going on.
Mineral Spring, &c
Some years ago, by boring in search of coal, was raised a very strong sulphureous spring, at 9 fathoms depth, that has been used with success in scorbutic, eruptive, and ulcerous disorders, and in stomachic complaints.
Cave
In the farm of Auchinskeith, and on the side of a limestone crag, is a remarkable cave, scooped by the hand of [106] nature. It is 44 feet above the bed of a rivulet, is covered with 30 feet of rock and earth, and crowned with wood. The entrance is adorned with a vast prominent rock 27 feet broad, and 30 long, sloping a little upward. The inward structure [107] is like Gothic arched work, supported with massy columns and butresses [sic]. Its width varies in different places from 5 to 10 feet; its height from 5 to 12 feet; and its length, so far as is accessible, is abut 183 feet. About the middle of it is a [108] spacious opening, 35 feet long, 12 feet wide, and 12 high. The whole internal surface is variously indented. Its floor is nearly dry; its sides and corners run off into many crevices; and its rook is emblazoned by calcareous incrustations.