[Vol. IX, pages 533–549]
(County of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presbytery of Irvine.)
By the Rev. Mr Thomas Brisbane.
Name, Extent, Rivulets, &c
Nothing is seemingly more arbitrary and capricious than the names of places, and nothing is for that reason perhaps less attended to and understood; owing, as we suppose, their origin to mere fancy or arbitrary will, we think them unworthy of a serious investigation; and that every attempt to account for them, is but a confirmation of what we suppose. On the other extreme, is the opinion of those who allow, indeed, that they may be traced, and their meaning ascertained, but that in order to this, ancient times must be consulted, and ancient tales be believed. Whatever, therefore, comes stamped with this authority, and has any relation, though but in sound to the name, is admitted as a matter of importance, and sufficient to settle every inquiry of this kind. To such persons the [534] marvellous and improbable are so far from being objections, that they rather appear to be natural for the times that gave them birth, and necessary to give dignity and permanency to what they were intended to express. It is for this reason, that the names of places have been explained in the most fanciful manner, and circumstances adduced in the explication of them, that exceed every degree of probability, and are evidently false. The name before us, as accounted for by some, is one of these. According to them, there was among the Danes who infested this country, a man of extraordinary strength and stature, and that upon a time, to show I suppose his extraordinary folly, he made a remarkable leap from a hill in the neighbourhood of the place where the church now stands, and to this incident the hill itself and the parish are indebted for their name. But without examining into the merits of this story, or regretting that it had not been more circumstantially told, we need only observe, that the name is with much more probability derived from an old and respectable family in the parish, or from its hilly appearance Dun–lop or Dun–luib, signifying, in Gaelic, “a winding or circuitous hill;” and were we to credit the tradition, that the house of Dunlop stood originally on the top of Dunlop–hill, we might be led from this circumstance, and the appearance of the ground about it, to suppose, that it might be called, in the language of the times, the house on, or the house of the winding hill, and that the family itself might afterward assume that name, and give it to the parish. The parish is of an oblong figure, being about 7 English miles long, and 2½ [fraction incomplete?] broad. It is bounded by the parishes of Neilston, Stewartoun, and Beith. From the first of these it is separated in front by a small burn or brook on the E, from the second in the same manner on the S, and from the last by the Lugton on the N. This has its source in the parish of [535] Neilston, is well stored with fish, especially trout, and is at present only worthy of notice for the extent of country through which it passes, and the winding course which it takes in its progress to Garnock, which it turns in the neighbourhood of Kilwinning. There are no rivers, and but 2 burns in the parish, one of which is considerable enough to afford a sufficient supply of water during the winter, and in wet seasons, to the mills which are erected on it, and is said to contain the charhe or chare, a species of trout of the finest quality.
Roads
By means of the roads which intersect it in different places, there is an easy access to every part of the parish, and likewise to the country and town around it. In consequence of this, the people have frequent and friendly intercourse with one another, know the value of every think they have to sell, and can bring it to the best market. To the same cause, perhaps, may be ascribed that polish and urbanity which they have in common with their neighbours, and that fondness for dress which is so observable on public occasions.
Surface, Soil, and Produce
The parish of Dunlop may be said to stand upon high ground, and to consist of a great variety of hills. None of these, however, are remarkable for their height, but many of them for the beautiful and extensive prospects which they give, and all of them for the rich grass which they produce, arising from an elevated base, which occupies great part of the parish. The ground, though hilly, is of easy access, and well adapted to the purposes of pasture and agriculture. For the same reason, it abounds in springs of excellent water; and being moreover within a few miles of the sea, it is blessed with a pure and healthful air. In consequence of this, the people and subject [536] to few diseases, and generally live to a good old age. In the western parts of the parish, the soil is either light or of a thin clay, and towards the E the prevailing soil is deep and heavy, with a cold wet bottom. And this, it is probable, has given rise to a practice unknown in other parts of the country, and which strangers are apt to consider as foolish and unaccountable. The custom is, to plough with 4 horses and 3 men; 2 of the men are employed in the usual way; but the third, with a long pole fixed to the beam of the plough, directs the beam, and assists the ploughman. By this mode, of an ancient date among them, they imagine they do more and better work in the same time, than could be done by any other method. But whether the advantages of this, supposing them to be real, will overbalance the expense of an additional horse and servant, is certainly a question of some importance, especially to those who have nothing but custom to justify their continuance of it. In a place like this, where the farms are small, and where the ploughing is carried on by two neighbours jointly, this expense is indeed not so readily perceived; yet still it must be for their interest to perceive it, and for their credit, as proper farmers, to retrench it. From what has been said concerning the difference of soil, it is easy to see that there will be a difference also in what it produces. The crops accordingly, which are usually oats, are better and more productive in the first and second, than they are in the third division of soil; those of the former yielding from 17 to 19, and those of the latter but from 12 to 15 pecks of meal the boll. The average rate, however, of meal the boll, for the whole parish, will not exceed 14 pecks, though the boll here contains a bushel more than it does in most other counties in Scotland. And what may appear a little strange for a parish not of great [537] extent, the harvest is concluded some seasons five sooner in the western than it is in the eastern extremity of it. But the principal produce, or manufacture, as it may be called, of the parish, is cheese. For this it has been long known and distinguished, insomuch that all the cheese made in the country about it, when carried to Paisley, Glasgow, or farther, goes by the name of Dunlop cheese, and finds a better market on that account. Nor is this preference to be ascribed altogether to prejudice; for it is certainly as good as ever it was, and equal, if not superior, to what is made any where else. The practice of making sweet–milk cheese, as it is called, was first introduced into this parish by one Barbara Gilmour, whose grandson is still living, and is proprietor of the same farm. Having gone to Ireland, to avoid the hardships which people were then exposed to on account of religion, she is said to have brought it with her when she returned about the time of the Revolution. Since that period, cheese has been the great and almost the only business of Dunlop. Sensible that their situation was more favourable for this than for any other purpose, the people bestowed upon it the greatest care, and turned it to the best advantage. They have inclosed their ground, have but a third or fourth of it in tillage, and the rest in grass, which is always a plentiful crop, and of the finest quality. They are very attentive both to the colour and shape of their cows, which are rather small than otherwise, and commonly of their own raising. And as these feed in inclosures, free from the restraints of herding, and are not brought into houses during the night, from the beginning of May to the end of harvest, the quantity of milk which they give is very great. I am sorry that under this article I cannot give the reader all the information I could wish, either as [538] to the number of cows that is kept, or the quantity of cheese that is made in the parish. The people were alarmed when questioned about these things, and alleging that this was valuing their farms, they refused to give me any satisfaction on this head; only from what I could collect, so far as I went with this view, I should suppose that there may be about 758 cows, and about 10,612 stones of cheese made in it annually, which is equal to £3714 4s at 7s a stone, the market price at present. And to this they are well entitled, both on account of the quantity and quality of their cheese. For as this is the produce of the richest pasture, and the best cows, so nothing can exceed their integrity and cleanliness in manufacturing it. Like that made in some of the counties of England, it appears to great disadvantage when new, but improves by age and proper keeping. The valued rent of the parish is £4115 17s 6d Scots. The real rent upwards of £3000 Sterling.
[539]
Population
According to Dr Webster's report, the number of souls then was 796. At the conclusion of the year 1791, the population of the parish, and the division of its inhabitants, were according to the following table:
Population 50 years age |
600 |
Population in the year 1791 |
779 |
Average of marriages, for 12 years, as above computed |
8 |
Average of births, for 12 years, as above computed |
16 |
Average of deaths, for 12 years, as above computed |
11 |
Inhabitants in the village |
112 |
Inhabitants in the country |
667 |
Number of males |
389 |
Number of females |
390 |
Number of persons under 10 years of age |
166 |
Number of persons between 10 and 20 |
171 |
Number of persons between 20 and 50 |
318 |
Number of persons between 50 and 70 |
99 |
Number of persons between 70 and 100 |
25 |
[540] Number of families |
160 |
Number of married persons |
244 |
Number of Seceders |
16 |
Number of proprietors residing |
41 |
Number of proprietors non–residing |
17 |
Number of tenants |
63 |
Number of male–servants |
32 |
Number of female–servants |
61 |
Number of masons |
6 |
Number of weavers |
12 |
Number of carpenters or wrights |
6 |
Number of smiths |
3 |
Number of shoemakers |
3 |
Number of tailors |
4 |
Number of labourers |
23 |
Number of innkeepers |
3 |
Number of poor |
8 |
Capital of their stock, about |
£325 |
Annual income, about |
£37 |
Number of churches |
1 |
Number of clergyman |
1 |
Number of schools |
1 |
Number of schoolmaster |
1 |
[541]
Language, Customs and Character
With regard to the people in general, and those things which mark and distinguish them, it may be observed, that they retain nothing [542] of the language which was originally spoken in the country, except the names of some places, which are evidently Gaelic, such as Knockmead, Duniflat, &c. Breckenhaugh, (which is a Scotch word), is the name of one of the finest natural objects that is to be met with in this part of the country; for walking upon level ground, which seems to be of considerable extent in all directions, we come, without expecting it, to the top of the hill, where we are struck [543] with the greatness of the height, and the grandeur of the valley below. In this situation, we feel every thing which the magnificent can inspire, not without a wish to retire from it will all convenient speed. The language which they speak is a mixture of Scotch and English, and has no other singularity, but the slow drawling manner in which it is spoken, and that they uniformly pronounce sow, sai–w, and mow, mai–w. The only custom which they may be said to retain is that of having great and expensive burials. It is no unusual thing when a wealthy person dies, to invite two or three parishes to attend his funeral; and they are limited to no particular hour, great part of the day is taken up in coming to it, and waiting on it. But the loss of labour, and the loss of time, are not the only evils that follow it; it becomes oppressive to those who cannot afford the expense, but who, from vanity or pride, must continue the custom. Many things have been objects of taxation, and were this as universal as it is unnecessary, it would be wise and merciful in the Legislature not to exempt it. In describing their character, it may be justly said, that they are of the principles of the Church of Scotland, and that there have the happiest influence on their civil and religious conduct. Warmly attached to the constitution in Church and State, they are zealously affected for the interests of both, and are almost as rarely seen to separate from the church as they are heard to be disloyal to their King. Nor are they less exemplary in the other duties of their station; so that it but seldom happens, that any of them are addicted to the common vices of the age; and there are but few of them who cannot show, that the hand of the diligent maketh rich. Among a people of this complexion, taverns cannot be numerous, nor be attended with bad effects; for few will be inclined to keep them, where little business and little profit are to [544] be expected. There would accordingly be still fewer than the present number in the parish, were it not for the public roads, which are frequented by strangers, and from whom chiefly they derive their encouragement, small as it is.
Ecclesiastical State, Stipend, School, &c
The next article in order is the church, under which it may be proper to give some account of it in ancient and modern times. Dunlop was one of the many parishes that had been appropriated to the monastery of Kilwinning, and of which that monastery became the beneficiary or titular. This is evident from a transaction between the Commendator and Kilwinning and Cuninghame of Arket [sic – but check], in the year 1581, whereby the former gives in tack to the latter the whole tiends, parsonage and vicarage, of the parish of Dunlop, for a certain number of years, and with the exception of certain lands therein specified. At an early period, therefore, and as soon perhaps as it was designed a parish, it may be supposed, that it would have a parish–church, and that the church may have stood at first at a place which is called the Temple–house to this day. But when it was built, and how long it continued there, cannot be known, as there is no vestige of it remaining, and as the tradition concerning it is almost gone. The next place where we find it, although equally uncertain of the time of its erection, is in a situation which was happily chosen for the purposes of duration in those days, standing at the bottom of a rock, extending itself in the form of a breast–work, and under the gloom of the trees and brushwood with which it would be covered. It possessed every thing that was requisite to inspire the worshippers with reverence, and to promote the severity of their acts of mortification, which the nature of their sin, or the pleasure of their priest, might enjoin; but whether it was customary in these cases, to repair to a [545] large detached stone in the field above, and there to perform part of them, is somewhat doubtful. The stone has been called, time immemorial, Thugirtstane, for the reason just now hinted, say the people, but more probably for its being found by itself, Thugirtstane being a corruption or an abbreviation of The girt or great stone. Hard by the church was a spring, which still continues, and from which issues a stream of the finest water, and in such abundance as to fill a bore of 2 inches diameter. It is styled in all the old writings, which mention it, the Chaplainry of the blessed Virgin Mary, which shows, that it was dedicated to her; and that the stepping stones in the burn, over which the people passed in their way thither, were called the Lady's Steps, for the same reason; which name the place still retains, although there be now a bridge at it. From what remains of it, it appears to have been a small house, but large enough, it may be presumed, to accommodate the inhabitants, which, probably it did till the Reformation, when it was either deserted or destroyed. In a different and more elevated situation, stands the present church; but having been rebuilt about 27 years ago, the date of its first foundation, if there was one, has not been preserved. It is pretty certain, however, from an inscription on the gravestone of Mr Hamilton, who died in the year 1608, and who is said to have served the cure here 45 years, that it was built at the Reformation, or soon after it. The [546] Stipend, including what is allowed for communion elements, is communibus annis, about £92 1s 4d Sterling. The school–house, which is a good substantial building, consists of 2 floors, one of which is employed by the school, and the other by the schoolmaster's family. It was one of [547] the best houses of the kind till of late, when some have been built in the neighbouring parishes on a larger scale, and in better situations. This is a circumstance that reflects [548] the highest honour on the gentleman concerned, and promises to be of extensive utility, by exciting others to follow their example.