Girvan
[Vol. XII, pages 335–345]
(County of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presbytery of Ayr.)
By the Rev. Mr James Thomson.
Name, Geography and Natural History
The origin of the name is unknown. In a decreet of locality, dated 1666, it is written Griffan, and was probably, at that time, so pronounced. The change of Griffan into Girvan, is somewhat similar to that of Striveling into Stirling. The greatest length of the parish from SW to NE is about 9 English miles; and it varies in breadth from 2 to 6 miles. About two–thirds of the southermost [sic] part of the parish is hilly. The hills never rise to a height, which, in Scotland, is considered as mountainous. They are, for the most part, green; and when they are heathy, the heath is short, and generally mixed with grass. Even in what may [336] be called the lowlands of the parish, situated on the sea–coast, and the banks of the Girvan, though there be a considerable proportion of flat ground, yet the surface presents, in general, a hilly appearance. A great variety is to be found in the soil; but that which is most prevalent, consists of a dry light mould, on a sandy, or gravelly bottom. In the low part of the parish, the air is remarkably dry and mild; and in the light lands, vegetation begins 2 or 3 weeks earlier than in the country in general. In the high grounds, the air being much colder, and more moist, vegetation of every kind is much more backward. It is generally thought there is abundance of coal in the low part of the parish; but no attempts to discover it have yet been made. The inhabitants are plentifully supplied from the coal–works in the parish of Dailly. There is a great quantity of lime–stone in the high part of the parish; but owing to its distance from coal, the want of roads, or the unfitness of the neighbouring grounds for agriculture, it has hitherto been but little used. The lowlands are well supplied from an extensive lime–work in the neighbourhood. Little or no free–stone has, as yet, been discovered in the parish. Pudding–stone, and a kind of rotten rock, abound almost every where. In some places the grey and blue whin–stone is found. In one spot a small quantity of gypsum, or plaster–stone; and, in another, a considerable bed of shell–marl have been discovered. The houses are all built of whin–stone, gathered partly from the land, but chiefly from the sea–beach.
The sea–coast extends upwards of 8 miles along the W side of this parish. Above a third part of the shore is bold and rocky; and, when flat, the beach is very generally covered with large whin–stones. In some parts a considerable quantity of sea–weed is occasionally left by the tide; and is used in manuring the neighbouring lands. A little kelp is made [337] once in 3 years. A quantity of salmon is annually caught at the mouth of the Girvan.
Population
According to Dr Webster's report, the number of souls in 1755 was 1193. Of the ancient state of population in the parish, no certain information can be obtained. No regular register of deaths and marriages was kept prior to August 1783, when the tax on registers was imposed. For about 5 years after that period, this register was accurately kept. A register of births has been preserved since the latter end of the year 1733. From an attention to this, so far as it goes, some probable conjecture concerning the state of population at different periods may be formed; and a comparative view of the former and present situation of the parish in this respect may be taken. For this purpose, the is annexed a table of births for 10 years succeeding December 1733; and for another 10 years prior to January 1791; to which is added a table of deaths and marriages for 5 years succeeding December 1783.
[338]
Years |
Births |
|
|
|
Years |
Births |
|
|
|
Males |
Females |
Total |
|
|
Males |
Females |
Total |
1734 |
21 |
16 |
37 |
|
1781 |
26 |
28 |
54 |
1735 |
9 |
18 |
27 |
|
1782 |
24 |
23 |
47 |
1736 |
16 |
12 |
28 |
|
1783 |
16 |
23 |
39 |
1737 |
14 |
12 |
26 |
|
1784 |
24 |
28 |
52 |
1738 |
17 |
16 |
33 |
|
1785 |
26 |
36 |
62 |
1739 |
14 |
19 |
33 |
|
1786 |
31 |
20 |
51 |
1740 |
16 |
17 |
33 |
|
1787 |
31 |
35 |
66 |
1741 |
19 |
13 |
32 |
|
1788 |
29 |
26 |
55 |
1742 |
9 |
13 |
22 |
|
1789 |
25 |
35 |
60 |
1743 |
23 |
14 |
37 |
|
1790 |
33 |
27 |
60 |
Totals |
158
|
150
|
308
|
|
Totals |
265
|
281
|
546
|
Average |
15.8 |
15 |
30.8 |
|
Average |
26.5 |
28.1 |
54.6 |
Years |
Deaths |
|
|
|
Years |
Marriages |
|
Males |
Females |
Total |
|
|
|
1784 |
9 |
17 |
26 |
|
1784 |
11 |
1785 |
18 |
15 |
33 |
|
1785 |
9 |
1786 |
11 |
18 |
29 |
|
1786 |
8 |
1787 |
12 |
10 |
22 |
|
1787 |
13 |
1788 |
30 |
30 |
60 |
|
1788 |
13 |
Totals |
80
|
90
|
170
|
|
Total |
54
|
Average |
16 |
18 |
34 |
|
Average |
104/5 |
[339] From an accurate list taken in the year 1791, it appears, that the total number of souls was then 1725: Of which there were,
Males |
849 |
|
Unmarried above 20 |
312 |
Females |
876 |
|
In the town of Girvan |
1012 |
Under 20 years of age |
701 |
|
In the country |
715 |
Above 20 years of age |
1024 |
|
Born out of Scotland,
chiefly in Ireland |
63 |
Married and widows |
712 |
|
|
|
Unmarried |
1013 |
|
|
|
According to their different occupations, the inhabitants may be distributed as follows:
Handicraftsmen, including 33 apprentices |
203 |
|
Day labourers |
49 |
Servants |
153 |
|
Surgeons and apothecaries |
3 |
Seamen |
22 |
|
Students at the University |
2 |
Shopkeepers |
9 |
|
Minister of the Establishment |
2 |
Licensed inn and tavern keepers |
8 |
|
Preacher of ditto |
1 |
Farmers |
78 |
|
|
|
From the above statements concerning the population of the parish of Girvan, it appears, that for upwards of half a century it has been gradually increasing; that it is now double of what it probably was 50 or 60 years ago. Though it be probable that the number of inhabitants in the country part of the parish, especially in the Lowlands, may be somewhat greater than it formerly was; yet, without doubt, by far the greatest part of the increased population is owing to the extension of the town of Girvan. 40 or 50 years ago, this town was very inconsiderable. According to the best accounts, it [340] consisted of about 24 houses only; and probably contained not many more than 100 souls. It now contains upwards of 1000. For this great increase various causes may be assigned. About 30 years ago, a considerable herring fishing took place at the mouth of the river very near the town. This fishing continued for 2 or 3 years. By the concourse of people it drew together, and by the wealth it produced, a sudden and considerable extension of the town was occasioned. The throwing of a number of small farms together, which, at one period, was frequently practised in this country, with the almost total exclusion of cottagers from the farms, obliged a number of families to take up their residence in the towns and villages. The practice of smuggling, too, which, for a number of years, was carried on to a considerable extent on this coast, contributed, in no small degree, to the increase of the town of Girvan.
Productions, &c
The number of trees is very small. There is scarcely any natural wood better than brush–wood. A few trees have been planted in the low part of the parish, and in sheltered situations have grown tolerably well. It is believed, that on many parts of the high grounds, trees might be reared with success and advantage. All the low part of the parish is capable of bearing grain; and, with the exception of a few enclosures near the shore, has been chiefly employed for that purpose. Considerable advances have been made, within these 30 years, in the improvement of agriculture. The low lands have been almost wholly enclosed. By the proper use of lime, marl, and sea–weed, together with a more regular rotation of crops, the produce, both in quantity and quality, has been, to a great degree encreased [sic]. Oats, barley, bear, pease, beans, and potatoes, are the only kinds of crops commonly raised. A small quantity of wheat and rye is [341] occasionally sown; but the former is thought an uncertain crop, and the latter is found profitable only when the soil is extremely light and sandy. On one farm, several acres of turnips are annually raised with good success. The kind of plough most commonly used, is one with an English mould–board, and a Scotch sock. Even in the hilly part of the parish, they have begun to cultivate such spots of land as are capable of it. For the most part, lime is used as their manure. In some places the surface is pared and burnt, and the ground manured with the ashes. In general, however, the disadvantages of the climate, together with the want of shelter and enclosures, render the crops, in this part of the parish, both scanty and precarious. The high grounds are, therefore, chiefly employed in the pasture of cattle and sheep. The greater part of them is indeed capable of being used in no other way. There are about 1700 head of cattle in the parish. Though, occasionally, there may be single instances of their rising to a great size, yet the cattle, in general are rather small. In some parts of the parish they are completely fatted; but the bulk of them are sold for the purpose of being driven to England. In the low pasture grounds, the grass is remarkably rich. A single acre is sometimes more than sufficient to fatten an ox or cow of moderate size. There are about 214 scores of sheep. Except a very few of the mixed breed between Scotch and English, they are all of the small black–faced kind common in this country. Attention is paid by almost all the farmers to the improvement of the kind they already possess; but no attempts have been yet made to introduce a different breed.
The property of this parish is very unequally divided [342] among 10 different heritors. One only of them resides. Mr Hamilton of Bargeny, is proprietor of the town of Girvan, and of by far the greatest part of the country parish. There is a spot of ground among the hills, supposed to be above 30 acres in extent, which may be considered as a kind of common. It has never, in the memory of man, been claimed or possessed by any individual; but is pastured in common by the tenants of those proprietors who have land in its immediate neighbourhood. In consequence of the improvements in agriculture, the advance in the price of cattle and sheep, and the increase of the town of Girvan, the rent of land in this parish has, within these 40 years, been very considerably advanced. At present (1791) the rents of the whole may be stated at about £3200, and, when some old leases are out, they will amount to a good deal more. Its valued rent is £4621 4s 10d Scots. With the exception of a few, whose leases are of an old date, the tenants pay their whole rent in money. In some instances, they are bound to lead coals to their landlords, or to pay a certain sum for this purpose.
Antiquities
There are, in this parish, 5 of those small round enclosures on the tops of rising grounds, which are commonly called camps. Two of them are very near the sea–side, and none of them more than 2 miles from the coast. One of these is remarkable for having 2 ditches, the 1 parallel to the other, and each surrounding the hill on the top of which it is situated.
[343]
Ecclesiastical State, Stipend, Schools, Poor
The inhabitants of this parish belong almost wholly to the Established Church. There are not more than 20 Seceders, and only 2 Roman Catholics. The King is patron. By the last decreet, given in the year 1666, the minister's stipend is fixed at 57 bolls 12¾ pecks of meal, paid at the rate of eight stone and an half the boll; 31 bolls 8 pecks of bear; 1 boll 4 pecks of oats; with £368 4s 8d Scots, of money. He has also a manse and glebe, which may be valued at £12 or £15. There is one established schoolmaster, who resides in the town of Girvan. He has, at an average, about 50 scholars. Of these, 30 are taught English, at the rate of 2s a quarter; 16 are taught writing and arithmetic, at the rate of 2s 6d; and 4 are taught Latin at 3s. These wages, and £100 Scots of salary, with his emoluments as session–clerk and precentor, render his place worth about £30 a year. A number of private schools are also occasionally kept, both in the town and the distant parts of the parish. The poor's [sic] funds of this parish are wholly under the management of the kirk–session. They arise from the interest of £165 of stock, from voluntary contributions, and from penalties received from those who subject themselves to the discipline of the church. From the accounts for 5 years preceding January 1791, it appears, that the sum of £41 Sterling has, at an average, been annually received; that during the same period, the sum of £38 has, at an average, been annually distributed; and that in these years, the average number of [344] those who were regularly on the poor's roll, amounted to 36, besides a number of others to whom occasional assistance was given. It is to be observed, that out of the above sum, received chiefly on account of the poor, between £2 and £3 are annually given to the presbytery and session–clerks, the precentor, and kirk–officer.
Town of Girvan
The town of Girvan is situated at the mouth of the river bearing that name. It is a post town, and lies on the great road between Ayr and Port–Patrick. The town of Girvan possesses many advantages for trade and manufactures. In the neighbourhood of a plentiful corn country, with abundance of coal within 2 or 3 miles, and probably much nearer, it enjoys in sufficient quantity, all the necessaries of life. Standing very near the sea, and built on a dry sandy soil; its situation is remarkably healthy. Its harbour, far from being now a bad one, is capable of much improvement. In its present natural state, the entrance into the harbour is, at high water, from 9 to 11 feet deep; and were a key to be built, which, it is said, might be done for £2000 or £3000, it would be rendered considerably deeper. [345] The surge never rises here to any great height; and so happily is the harbour situated, that vessels can get out to sea with a wind from almost any quarter, if it does not blow very hard. With such advantages, any kind of trade, and especially the coal–trade, might, with good prospect of success, be carried on. Hitherto, however, little or nothing has been done in this way. There is at present, no more than one vessel above 20 tons burden, belonging to this place, or trading to it. The rest are all small, open, or half–decked boats, used for running salt from Ireland, or freighting goods from one part of the coast to another. Nor, till very lately, was there any thing deserving the name of manufacture to be found in Girvan. The weaving of cotton–cloth has of late been introduced by the manufacturers of Glasgow. Upwards of 100 looms are now employed, and the business is extending every day. That a situation so advantageous for trade or manufactures should have been so long neglected, may appear surprising; but may perhaps be in some degree accounted for by observing, that Girvan is placed at a considerable distance from any great trading or manufacturing town; that no person bred to business, and at the same time possessing a good capital, ever happened to settle here, or in the neighbourhood; and that habits of regular industry were probably prevented or destroyed by the practice of smuggling, to which the inhabitants were, for a long time, so much addicted. There is reason, however, to hope, that if trade and manufactures continue to flourish in the country, in general, Girvan will, in a short time, acquire that share in them, to which, from its natural advantages, it appears to be entitled.