Seagate castle, Irvine
Maryborough salt pan houses
weavers' cottages in Crosshill

Articles

Culzean coach house
Return to Home page Go to About page Go to list of Articles Go to Bibliography Go to Links page Go to illustrated catalogue of Ayrshire milestones Go to Research Postings Search this site

Copyright notice:  Links to this site are welcomed.  However none of the material on the site may be duplicated in any form.  The copyright of the articles is the property of the authors.  Copyright of the web pages is the property of David McClure.

Old Statistical Account

Kilmaurs

[Transcribed from the original by David Courtney McClure.]

[Vol.  IX, pages 350–376]

(County of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presbytery of Irvine.)

By the Rev. Mr Alexander Millar.

Name and Extent

Time, the great destroyer of men and things, has blotted out the memory of those circumstances which first gave rise to the name by which this parish is now distinguished; and, therefore, as in most cases of the kind, conjecture alone must supply the place of certain knowledge.  In some ancient records of session, the name is spelled, Kilmares, which seems to be a small variation of the word Maries, and if so, it is probable that the Kil was dedicated to the Mother of our Lord, or to some person of the family who endowed it, bearing that name.  But at this day, it is most commonly written Kilmaurs, by which some are disposed to think that the church, from which the parish has its designation, was originally dedicated to a St Maurs.  In support of this derivation, the subjoined fact [351] has some strength. [1]   The length of this parish from E to W is 6, and the greatest breadth from N to S 3 miles.

Rivulets, &c

A rivulet, which rises in Fenwick, and running the whole length of the parish from E to W divides it nearly into two equal parts.  This rivulet has several names given to it, taken from the most remarkable places through which it passes.  Here it is known by the name of Kilmaurs water.  A little lower it is called Carmel, which it retains, till it loses itself in the Irvine.  In its course, two mills belonging to the parish are supplied, but in the drought of summer, and frost of winter, it becomes almost dry; a circumstance which deprives this part of the country of the advantages from machinery, applied to the spinning of cotton by water.  The inhabitants of Kilmaurs town might find in it a sufficient quantity to answer the purposes of bleaching thread, and it is surprising, that some of them have not turned their attention to this article.  It produces some trout and eel.  The Irvine [352] on the S and SW glides along the skirts of this parish for nearly two miles.  Salmon, trout, and eel, are found in it, but none of them remarkable either for quantity or quality.  There might be a cotton mill erected at Milnton in our bounds, where there is at present an excellent corn and barley mill; sufficient water for both may at all times be found.  On the N and NW a burn separates us from Dreghorn. [2]

Surface, &c

The surface consists of large flat fields, with many gentle risings and declivities interspersed.  The summits of these are covered with trees, planted in circles, which, with others of the same kind, spread all over Cunninghame, give a beautiful appearance to the whole of this country, as well as profit to the owners, by affording timber for houses.  The prospect from these summits, which are in every farm, is extensive and delightful; for many miles all round, the whole country appears as one well cultivated garden.  Towns, villages, and gentlemen's houses, meet the eye on every quarter.  The hills of Arran, and the frith of Clyde, terminate our view on the W, the hills of Kilbirny of the N, the high grounds of Fenwick and Galston on the E and SE, and some hills on the borders of Dumfries–shire and Galloway, make our horizon to the S.  About 20 or 30 years ago, there was no such thing to be seen as trees or hedges in this parish; all was naked and open; every farm–house, old, paltry, inconvenient, and unpleasantly situated; not a single made road, either to kirk or market.  Now, all is completely inclosed, and subdivided by ditches and thorn hedges.  New houses, on a regular convenient plan, and pleasantly situated, every where gladden the eye, and suggest the ideas of activity, neatness and wealth, of which every liberal minded man wishes to be possessed, and delights to see in the possession of others.

Roads

An easy communication is now opened up to all the market towns, whether far or near.  From Kilmaurs town, as a centre, the following lines of road go out; S to Kilmarnock, NNW by Cunninghamehead and Perceton to Irvine, E to Fenwick, where it joins the Glasgow road, W by Bushby and Fairlie Bridge to Ayr.  The road from Kilmarnock to Irvine runs across this last line at Cross–house, and the road between Kilmarnock and Stewarton cuts the east line at Shaw–bridge, half a mile from Kilmaurs.  These roads so divide and quarter this parish, that no farmer is distant from one or other of them more than the fourth of a mile, severals [sic] not so much.  The expense of making and repairing roads here is defrayed by toll–duties, together with a certain yearly sum levied from the tenants, according to the proportion of valued rent which they hold, and from each householder, in terms of statute; or money is borrowed from individuals, who have it to spare, upon the security of one or more trustees, whose interest is most promoted by the roads in this or the other direction, and the toll–duties, with the other assessments already mentioned, are applied to the payment of the interest, and the gradual extinction of the [354] original debt.  Sensible that no progress in agricultural improvements can be made, without the advantages of good and convenient roads, the gentlemen in every district of this county have paid an unwearied and successful attention to this object.  What an undertaking must it have been to travel but a few miles in those days, when no road was any where to be seen, and where the soil, as in a great many parts of this parish, is a deep clay, though in many other parts it is a rich loam, and every inch arable!

Climate, &c

The operations of the husbandmen are now incomparably more easy, that good roads are brought to their doors: But still they have some inconveniences to struggle with, which cannot be remedied.  They are frequently interrupted by inconstancy of weather, which obliges them to plough less, or more untimously [sic], and to reap with more risk than they could wish.  It is probably owing to our being situated in the vicinity of the Atlantic, and the high hills of Arran, that we have much rain, and many severe blasts.  To the same cause may be ascribed the absence of frost and snow, or the mildness of the one, and the short continuance of the other on the ground.  These NW and SW blasts, however troublesome in many respects, serve to preserve us from fogs, which seldom or never appear in our atmosphere.  The inhabitants are generally healthy; not remarkable for longevity, though some reach from 70 to 80.  One or two are now at 90.  Several instances of scrofula and consumption have occurred, but not sufficient to mark these as the most prevalent diseases.  Rheumatism is the complaint of many, especially of those who are on the decline of life.  Sudden colds attack the young and middle aged.  Fevers sometimes make their appearance, and seldom depart without death in their train; but these are generally [355] brought into the parish by servants from great towns, whose parents or relations reside here.  Many epidemical diseases might be warded off from a whole country, if liberal contributions were made for building and maintaining infirmaries, in which the sick and diseased among the poor would find a comfortable retreat, and the necessary advantages of medical aid.  Donations for this purpose are the very essence of charity, which assimilated men to the Supreme Being, whose providential care extends to all his creatures. [3]

Population

According to Dr Webster's report, the numbers were then 1094.  At present they amount to 1147.  The inhabitants may be classed as residing in the country part of the parish, and in the town of Kilmaurs.  Of men, women and children in the country, excepting farmers, the number is 384, of these 174 are males, 210 are females, all which fall under the following denominations.

Day–labourers

27

Millers

3

Weavers

15

Masons

8

Wrights

4

Smiths

3

Tanner

1

A gentleman's gardener

1

Colliers

3

Waulk–millers

2

[356] Men servants residing in their masters houses

28

Men servants out of masters houses, having families

3

One who lives in his master's house, but family out

1

Gentleman's servant married

1

Gentleman's servants unmarried

2

Chaise–driver

1

Female servants

46

Gentlemen married

2

Gentlemen unmarried, whose mother or sisters live with them

3

Widow living with friends or children

1

Widows in houses of their own, having children

7

Women never married, living with friends or by themselves

17

House–keepers

2

Antiburgher minister, married

1

Antiburgher student

1

Established minister

1

Kikr–officer

1

 

between

Husbands

Wives

20 and 30

8

12

30 and 40

11

20

40 and 50

13

14

50 and 60

18

8

60 and 70

9

4

70 and 80

1

1

80 and 90

1

1

 

61

61

 

children between

Male

Female

1 and 5

24

24

5 and 10

17

22

10 and 15

20

14

 

61

60

 

[357]

unmarried between

Males

Females

15 and 20

13

24

20 and 30

22

35

30 and 40

9

13

40 and 50

3

3

50 and 60

2

7

60 and 70

2

7

70 and 80

1

0

 

52

89

 

No man who can work is at any loss to provide comfortably for himself and family, because the price of labour is now a great deal more than it was some years ago, is increased since last year, and increasing still, while that of meal, the chief article of living, is nearly, at an average, the same it was 20 or 30 years ago. [4]

[358] Besides the above mentioned number of inhabitants residing in the country district of Kilmaurs, there is another class which deserves particular notice, and which for this purpose is kept by itself.  This class comprehends none but actual farmers, their wives and children.  The number of whom taken together is 249, of these 135 are males, 114 are females; and in the following table their different and corresponding ages may be seen.

between

Husbands

Wives

20 and 30

0

10

30 and 40

11

10

40 and 50

8

14

50 and 60

14

9

60 and 70

9

1

70 and 80

2

0

 

44

44

 

children between

Male

Female

1 and 5

18

15

5 and 10

20

16

10 and 15

21

11

 

59

42

 

[359]

between

Males unmarried, and children of those married.

N.B. Three or four of this class are widowers.

Females unmarried

15 and 20

11

15

20 and 30

11

9

30 and 40

2

3

40 and 50

2

 

50 and 60

1

 

60 and 70

4

1

70 and 80

1

 

 

32

28

 

These subsist by the immediate produce of the land, and occupy farms from 15 to 50, and from 50 to 150 acres.  There are but a very few of the first, several of them having been united.  This, however, has had little effect upon the population, many of the old houses being still occupied by cottagers.

Agriculture

On the farms black cattle and some horses are reared; of the former, there are a considerable number, for the farmers generally breed their own stock, and a good many for the market besides, which, when sold, as milk cows at a proper age, commonly bring from £6 to £9.  With respect to the latter, it has been the practice here to but young horses at the age of 4 or 5, to use them for a year or two, and then to sell before they begin to fall off, by which method it is generally contrived to have the work of the horse for the expense of his maintenance, and even a little profit between buying and selling; but of late this practice is almost laid aside, and that of breeding come in its place.  Such horses as are reared in the parish, are of an excellent kind, particularly fit for the draught, and when brought to market, have sold for upwards of £30 Sterling.  [360] The ordinary and most productive crops are oats, a little barley or bear, and but a little of these is cultivated, being found not to answer the soil and climate.  Early oats are much in use, and thrive well where the land is rich.  Beans and pease are sown in small quantities, and wheat in a still smaller proportion.  Potatoes and flax are raised only for private use, and turnips never sown as a crop.  The return of oats is from 5 to 10 bolls of 8 Winchester bushels the acre, which, for the most part, renders in meal about 18 or 19 pecks from the boll, each peck weighing 8 lb.  Of bear the produce is from 4 to 8 bolls the acre; barley rather less.  Besides serving the inhabitants, a very considerable quantity of oats and oat–meal is carried to the adjacent towns, and exported to Glasgow and Paisley, where the oats are sold for 19s or 20s the boll, oat–meal at 17s 4d, 17s 5d each boll weighing 8 stone, barley at £1 6s, bear at £1 4s, beans and pease at 4s the bushel. [5]

Farmers in times that are now past were allowed to choose for themselves what kind and what portion of land they would lay under some of these crops; for it was only some that they could raise, during which time they could not produce plenty, consequently paid a very small rent.  They neither knew the full force of lime, nor had it in their power, for want of roads, to apply it.  In the early dawning of agricultural knowledge, they were taught to confine themselves to croft and outfield; the former was ploughed 3 and rested on year; and when laid down for [361] this short rest, it got a little dressing, with what dung could be spared from garden and potatoes.  The outfield lay in grass so many years, and was ploughed so many as was agreed upon, without any manure whatever, during which time there were bad crops, and as bad pasture; therefore poor tenants, and small ill paid rents.  When such leases came to an end, and when the land was completely inclosed, the distinction of outfield and infield was taken away, and a method of farming, very simple, yet well adapted to the nature of the soil, was introduced, particularly in the management of Lord Eglinton's estate.  The great object was to lift the land for tillage, and to lay it down again in good heart.  Rest and lime were sufficient for the first, and a restriction in ploughing, with the application of dung to the last or two last crops in that restriction for the latter.  To promote these ends effectually 3 divisions were made of each farm, 1 of which was limed at the proprietor's expense with the quantity of 100 or 150 bolls the acre, which is burnt by the farmers themselves, and spread upon the field to be ploughed, sometimes 12 months, and sometimes only 2 before tilling.  This one division and no more is allowed at a time to be in tillage.  The other 2 remain under grass.  After ploughing the one division mentioned for 3 years successively, it was committed to rest on the last of these, with grass–seeds sown among those for the 3[r]d crop.  Then another division, limed at the tenant's expense was broken up, and so in rotation.  The tenant is always permitted to cut the grass for the 1st year of that division which was last laid down.  This method is still in practice; but where the farm is large, another mode has been adopted; 4 divisions are preferred to 3; and each division is ploughed 3 years, then rest 9; or 2 grain crops are taken from it, and then is turned into pasture, in which state [362] it continues for 6 years. [6]   The rent a–acre has been as low as 4s or 5s.  Then the tenants were poorer than now, when it, upon an average, is so high as £1 2s or £1 3s.  When leases have been granted within these 5 years past, the rent is from £1 10s to £1 12s.  In a particular farm 74 acres of pasture land was let about a month ago, for 2 years after Whitsunday 1794, at £124 Sterling, and a number of acres in the same farm, for ploughing, 3 years, at £5 and £5 10s the acre; nor is there reason for complaints, for that land yielded, on each acre, 10 or 12 bolls of corn, yet this very land, between 20 and 30 years ago, was rented so low as 4s or 5s an acre, and after all the tenant went a bankrupt out of it.  Little reason, then, have our farmers to upbraid those gentlemen who have raised their rents, seeing they have also taught them how to acquire even more than these rents.  There have been, and there will always be some men in society, so stupid as not to be sensible of their own interest, or so wicked as not to be grateful when it is promoted; but the good and wise will be open to conviction, ready to submit to instruction, and to be governed by the judgement of others, whose [363] knowledge is better cultivated, and whose observation is more accurate and extensive than their own; of these last it is hoped there are not a few in the parish of Kilmaurs.  Industry in any undertaking is, for the most part, abundantly rewarded: “The hand of the diligent maketh rich;” and industry, recommended by those whose rank sets them above the common level of life, cannot fail of gaining attention, which is the first step towards a conformity of action.  Such examples are in the eye of the farmers of Kilmaurs.  Several gentlemen occupy their own estates, or at least in part, on which they practise the most approved methods of husbandry, and add to them the discoveries of their own experiments. [7]   The contents of the parish in acres, and the [364] amount of real rent, are secrets which the public, it is thought, should not pry into.  Be it so, ne futor [futor?] ultra crepidam; but there can be no harm, surely, in figuring it away.  If then it be true, that the real rent comes nearly [365] in Sterling to the valued rent in Scots money, the real rent may be estimated at nearly £5000, the valued rent being £5305.  Suppose the real rent to be £5000, that divided by an average rent the acre of 23s will produce a [366] quotient of 43917/23 acres; the 3d of which being in tillage, leaves 2928 of pasture.  Two acres to each cow, makes them in number 1464.  The butter and cheese from each cow is valued at £4 a year.  The value then of the pasture land in the parish, by this calculation, is £5856, besides profits upon young cattle, and swine fed upon the whey.  1463 acres, which is 1/3d of 4391, producing 7 bolls the acre, will yield 10,241 bolls of oats, which, at 1s the peck, comes to £8192 16s added to £5856, is £14,048, from which, if the gross rent, the expense of seed, manure, labour, the interest of stock, tear and wear of utensils, etc etc be deduced, there will remain a sum equal at least to the rent; and it is evident, that the intention of proprietors is to allow their tenants to make one good rent for the use of the soil, one for defraying the expense of labour, etc, and one for the maintenance of their families, etc.  While this is the case, master and tenant have reason to be pleased with one another.  It is not affirmed that the above statement is exactly the truth.  It cannot, however, be far from it; and it serves to establish this fact, that while proprietors wish to have a reasonable rent for their lands, they wish also to avoid oppression towards their tenants.  At present the value of land is greatly on the increase, and the reason is, that every thing it produces is also increased in value.  Butter is here sold for 11d the lb; cheese for 7s the stone.  This last article is of that kind which is [367] called Dunlop, or sweet–milk cheese, though the mode of making it was first introduced into Dunlop parish, and from thence communicated gradually to the whole of Cunningham, yet now it is made in as much perfection here as there; great quantities of it are carried from this to the adjacent towns, and particularly to the market of Paisley and Glasgow. [8]

Town of Kilmaurs

It was erected into a burgh of barony by James V a the instance of Cuthbert Earl of Glencairn, and William, his son, Lord Kilmaurs.  That noble family then resided in this parish, where they had a house, some small ruins of which yet remain on the farm, which is called Jock'sthorn, near to the road leading from Stewarton to Kilmarnock, and the house known by the name of the Place, was possessed by them, where the late Chancellor had laid the foundation of a very extensive building, and executed part of it; but from the embarrassments of fortune, from which he expected to be relieved by Government, in whose service, it is said, he incurred them, was obliged to give up the plan. [9]   By a charter, written in [368] Latin, and signed by the said Cuthbert Earl of Glencairn, and his son, Lord Kilmaurs, at Glasgow, 15th November 1577, it appears, that the five–pound land of Kilmaurs, consisting of 240 acres, was disponed to 40 different persons in feu–farm and free burgage, and to be held in equal proportions by them, their heirs and successors, upon the yearly payment of 80 merks of the usual money of the kingdom, that is, 2 merks for each 40th part. [10]   It is [369] obvious, that the great design of the Noble family, [in appears to have been obliterated] this erection, was to bring together into one place as many trades people as possible, and that the feuing of these lands was meant as an encouragement and help to such; but it has all along produced a contrary effect.  Six acres of land was the share which fell to each of these 40 feuars or tenementers, as they are called, the cultivation of which is no more than proper exercise and amusement for a man whose employment is sedentary, and which, with his labour otherwise, would enable him to live in some degree of comfort.  But it is the misfortune of most men, to have a greater liking for employments that are foreign to them, than for those which they have been bred up to follow; hence, the tenementers of Kilmaurs did abandon their principal business, and content themselves with the produce of their small bit of ground.  This burgh land is famous for having served Galloway, Nithsdale, Clydesdale, and all Ayrshire, with kail plants; and it was the demand for them that turned the attention of the proprietors so much to the cultivation of their little spots; but that demand has long ceased, other countries having learnt to raise this article for themselves.  There is not in the county better land, but it labours under this disadvantage of being runridge.  In this case inclosures are impracticable, except where good sense has prevailed in bringing about an exchange of property, and it is hoped, that the beneficial consequences of the few instances of this that have happened, will open the eyes of those who are blinded by prejudice and custom.  The number of portioners is now less than when the charter was granted, several of the fortieth parts having been sold and laid together by one purchaser, and it is probable, that they will all in time become an united property; a circumstance not to be regreted [sic], seeing, that under such a division, all trade is neglected, and a very scanty subsistence [370] procured by the possession of them, while they are the only object of attention.  The town is pleasantly situated on a gentle ascent, looking towards the south.  It consists of one street only, with a by–lane or two, and a few back houses, the entries to which are through those in the front.  A small town–house stands in the middle, having a steeple and good clock.  In this, the courts of Justice are held, and the meeting of the Council for electing Magistrates, and other affairs of the town.  No man can be elected a Magistrate, unless he be also a portioner, and none but those who are portioners can vote in such elections. [11]   Many of the fortieth parts being now the property of one person, there are by these means houses to spare for tradesmen, and more might still be had by subfueing.  There is every inducement for such people to choose an habitation here.  The town is distant from coal, wrought in the lands of Mr Ritchie of Busby, only one mile or a little more.  Each house has a garden belonging to it, sufficient to supply any family with plenty of potatoes, and every ordinary vegetable.  The market of Kilmarnock, which is but 2 English miles from this, can afford every thing else that may be needed.  there was a time when 30 cutlers, and a good many tinkers, resided in Kilmaurs.  The cutlers made excellent work, some of which is to be seen in the parish this day, particularly breakfast knives, superior, it is said, to any thing of the kind that has as yet been made at Sheffield or Birmingham.  The blade is of the best metal, neatly shaped, finely polished, and set in a haft of Tortoise–shell, [371] or stained horn, girt with silver virlets. [12]   A branch of business has of late sprung up in this place, tambouring, which affords employment to the females, and which has rendered the expense of rearing a family not only less, but has made it an advantage for a man to have his family consist mostly of than sex.  Girls at the age of 8 or 9 years, it is said, can earn 8d a day, and those of 14 or 15 1s 6d.  It is pleasant to see the effects of this industry in the dress and manners of these people.  Long may such sources of comfort continue; for though the human mind is apt to be intoxicated by prosperity, and the conduct to be thereby tinctured with levity, yet, in circumstances of this kind, the heart is more easily trained to virtue, and the good less liable to hypocrisy.  Some have complained in the Statistical Account of their parishes, that these works of art, which bring so many people of different sex, age and tempers together are unfriendly to the interest of morality.  But an attentive observer must be convinced, that the vices which are most hurtful to society, do not prevail so much where an open and unrestrained intercourse takes place, as where secrecy and the tempora mollia fandi are frequently enjoyed.  Besides, that virtue which proceeds from the absence of temptation, is merely negative; and though it may prevent punishment, yet is not surely the object of reward.  That propensity to imitation which [372] is found in the human condition, should operate in favour of virtue as well as vice; and therefore, as in every society there are some virtuously inclined, why should the influence of good example be less powerful than that which is bad?  Human nature should never be disparaged too much, nor more expected from it than what consists with the situation in which it is placed.

The inhabitants of Kilmaurs town are in number 514, of which 226 are males, 288 females.

between

Husbands

Wives

15 and 20

1

 

20 and 30

13

16

30 and 40

14

30

40 and 50

22

24

50 and 60

17

14

60 and 70

11

5

70 and 80

6

5

80 and 90

2

 

 

Children between

Male

Female

1 and 5

39

29

5 and 10

21

23

10 and 15

33

32

 

93

84

 

[The table below is split irregularly between pages 371 and 372.]

between

Widowers

Widows

Males unmarried

Females unmarried

15 and 20

 

 

18

27

20 and 30

1

 

12

23

30 and 40

 

2

1

10

40 and 50

1

5

 

11

50 and 60

1

10

2

6

60 and 70

3

9

2

3

70 and 80

1

4

 

1

80 and 80

 

1

 

1

 

7

31

35

82

 

Cotton–spinners

3

Shoemakers

21

Tailors

4

Masons

9

Wrights

6

Weavers

9

Smiths

2

Colliers

11

Cooper

1

Tinkers

4

Stocking–weaver

1

Fidler

1

Day–labourers

16

Apprentices to shoemakers

8

Apprentices to wrights

7

Apprentices to weavers

4

Apprentice to smith

1

Journeymen weavers

3

Journeymen shoemakers

2

Flaxdresser

1

Clock and watchmaker

1

Women servants

1

Parish school–master

1

Teacher without salary [13]

1

 

[374] The people are in general industrious, and where their interest is concerned, they have address sufficient for obtaining or preserving it.  Suspicion among themselves in transacting business, and design covered by an affected simplicity towards superiors are perhaps sometimes discernible.  Compared with the times which are honoured with the character of pure, the vices which now appear are fewer and less attrocious.  Like every other community, ours consists of a mixture of characters.  Justice requires it to be told, that much civility, kindness, integrity, and candour, are practised by many.

Note

The kirk of Kilmaurs was founded a college by Sir William Cuninghame of Kilmaurs the 13th of May 1403, and endowed by him with certain lands, for the support of a provost, seven prebendaries, and two singing–boys.  It is difficult to determine where these lands lay; part of them, it is probable, are now the property of James Watson, Esq. merchant, Greenock.  The tower, of which this gentleman is the proprietor, has been an high strong built house, consisting of several apartments, and is separated from the church by a garden, laid out with excellent taste, especially of the kind which is favourable to retirement and meditation.  This, of all other places in the parish, is best suited to the convenience of the clergy,  It is therefore most likely they had this for their residence.  The lands contiguous, consisting of 80 acres nearly, less or more, pay no teind either to the titular or minister; and no reason can be assigned for this, unless that they are church–lands, belongin originally to the Cistertian [sic] order.  There was a mill, called the prebendary mill, immediately in the neighbourhood of the lands now mentioned, to which a district of the parish was thirled, and the multures were paid for behoof of the prebendaries.  The religious house of Kilmaurs, it is said, was annexed to the abbey of Selkirk, afterward Roxburgh, now Kelso.  The church itseld must have undergone many alterations, if it is not altogether new since its first erection.  There is nothing magnificent either in its size or structure.  The only remarkable thing about it, is a burying place and monument belonging to the family of Glencairn.  This monument has been executed at very considerable expense, but it is now in a state of shameful disrepair.  It is open to every idle and thoughtless visitor, who takes pleasure in demolishing the carved work.  It is the only interest which [375] the representatives of that noble family now have in the parish, where their influence was once great, and their property extensive; with submission, therefore, it may be observed, that some attention is due to the memorials of ancient greatness.  We regret that the most beautiful structures of art cannot be preserved from the ravages of time, but when they are suffered by neglect to fall into ruins, we cannot refrain from censuring those to whom that neglect, with its consequences, are to be attributed.

A disposition to secede from the established church hath long subsisted among the inhabitants of Kilmaurs: and this disposition was first excited by the following circumstance: About the 1712, Mr Hugh Thomson, then minister of this parish, demitted, upon the expectation of being called to Stewarton, but was somehow disappointed; and either his pride would not permit him to solicit a re–admission, or a majority of the people, disobliged with his giving them up, refused it.  He retired to a small property of his own in the parish, and on Sabbaths preached sometimes at his own fire–side, and sometimes from a tent in the fields, to as many of his friends as would here him.  Five or six years elapsed before another minister was elected; during which time Mr Thomson had frequent opportunites of reconciling himself to many of his former congregation.  After Mr Miller was chosen and ordained, Mr Thomson still continued to preach in his own barn, or in the fields, to as many as were willing to hear him.  Inconstancy, which always attends the multitude, disposed some to go one way and some another; directed by humour, local convenience, or by the influence of one upon another, they attended sometimes Mr Miller, at other times Mr Thomson.  While they were in this fluctuating state, which continued long after Mr Thomson and Mr Miller's death; Mr Smyton a young Antiburgher Minister, made his appearance amongst them.  This clergyman, by the exercise of popular talents, or by the novelty of his declamations against the real or supposed defections of the church, drew crowds after him.  A congregation was soon formed for him, and a meeting–house built.  He married a daughter of Mr Thomson's, and by her succeeded to the property of a very good farm which is still in the possession of his heirs.  As nothing that is violent can be of long duration, so the extreme ardour with which this man was followed, gradually abated, and he sunk at last into the climate of cool estimation.  A dispute took place between him and his associate brethren about lifting the bread in the sacrament and holding it during the prayer of consecration.  Mr Smyton insisted, that it is of religious obligation to observe this mode of dispensing our Lord's Supper, and positively enjoined by the words of the institution itself.  By his brethren, this action was considered as not [376] binding the conscience, but that it might, or might not be performed without incurring guilt.  The argument was keenly agitated.  At length it issued in a rupture.  Mr Smyton refused to hold communion with those who did not punctually conform to his opinion, and the synod passed a sentence of expulsion against him for his obstinacy.  He was formally deposed, but he despised the authority by which this was done, and continued to preach.  It then became a question, who had the right to the meeting–house.  Whether those who remained, or those who went off.  The Court of Session determined it in favour of Mr Smyton, on this principle, that the majority of the Eldership, if not of the Congregation, remained with him.  The swarm that went off soon found for themselves a new house.  They are distinguished by the appellation of Lifters and Antilifters, or new and old light.  Of the former, including young people and children, who generally follow their parents, by have made now choice for themselves, going sometimes to one, and sometimes to another place of worship, the number 151, of the other 114, of Burghers 69, of Relief 7.  Would to God, that as much of the power as of the form of religion were appearing among us!  ‘But while one says I am of Paul, another, I am of Apollos,' the truth as it is in Jesus, even that religion which is from above, and is pure, peaceable, gently, easy to be entreated, full of mercy, and good fruits, is too much overlooked.

 



[1]           A small figure of a man, cut on one side of a stone cube, and placed in a notch made in a wall of the church, was found by the masons employed in making repairs, and which, in contempt of Popery, perhaps had been plastered up at the introduction of Episcopacy.  This figure is in a sitting position, dressed in a robe or cassock, which is tucked up before as far as the knees, leaving the legs and feet naked.  The hands appear from under the folds of the robe, holding something like a mace, which is carried as high as the head, resting upon the right breast and shoulder.  The head is covered with a cap or hood, resembling a coronet, having 2 crescents in front.  The beard is long, and falls in ringlets on the breast.  When the practices of superstition and idolatry are considered, into which former ages had fallen, we are led to conclude that this can be nothing else but the image of the person, in honour of whom the church and parish have their name.  As power and influence command adulation, so there is reason to believe that this Saint had been eminent, when such a tribute of homage was paid to him.  It is said that the order was Cistertian [sic]; an order which became so powerful, that they governed almost all Europe, both in spirituals and temporals.

[2]           Its name is Gawreer, and may be thus derived.  Gaw is that slit or opening made by a plough or spade in the side of a pond, loch, or stagnated water, by which it is drained off; reer may be a corruption of ruigh or righ, which, in Gaelic, signifies “to run or move quickly”.  In the sense given of these words, they can be applied, with propriety, as descriptive of the peculiarities which distinguish this stream.  It is drawn from a loch in the parish of Stewarton, by a gaw, in which it runs at some distance, and then seeks a course for itself.  Gawreer, or rather Gawrigh, expresses the idea of a water–course, not make be the natural exertions of that element, but by the accidental application of it to some purposes of art.

[3]           Inoculation for the small pox hath not yet become general, owing to the prevalence of a religious persuasion, that the Divine Government, without any care on the part of man, will accomplish whatever is best for him.  So deeply are the tenets of this kind impressed, that all attempts to show the necessity of using those means by which the Providence of God operates, both in temporal and spiritual concerns, are houted [indistinct?] and despised.  Much have the Teachers of Religion to answer for, who establish faith upon the ruins of practice.  The number of deaths, and the diseases which prove mortal, cannot be ascertained, no register of them having been kept.  Births are also for the same reason unknown.

[4]           The encouragement given to men, women, and children, by manufacturers, hath drawn so many people from the country to them, that the few remaining avail themselves of the scarcity of hands, for obtaining an augmentation of wages.  A labourer, in summer, earns a day, according to his ability for work, his known diligence and dispatch in working, from 1s 2d to 1s 4d and 1s 6d; from the 12th of November to the 12th of February, 1s or 1s 2d; in autumn, those who are engaged for the whole harvest, whether men or women, receive from £1 5s to £1 10s with their victuals; those hired by the day, during that season, 1s 6d; of late more has been given, and their diet also furnished.  Hay–cutters, if paid by the day, receive from 1s 6d to 1s 8d; if by the acre, from 1s 6d to 1s 8d sometimes 2s 6d according to the ease or difficulty which evidently attends the work to be performed.  The wages of a carpenter, the day, are 1s 6d; of a mason, 1s 8d; both of late 2s.  Of a tailor, 1s; but a deduction of 4d is always made from the above, when the employer furnishes provisions.  Many kinds of work are contracted for by the piece, and care is taken by the worker, that no engagement of this sort shall afford less to him, upon the whole, that some, if not the highest, of the above mentioned wages, the day.  Every tradesman estimates his work, one day with another, at 1s 6d and 2s.  [358] Men servants are hired for a half year at from £4 to £4 10s; women for the same time, at £1 15s, some at £2.  There are only 3 or 4 men servants who do not live in their masters families, and who are allowed £6 or £7 in money, 6½ bolls of oat–meal, a cow's grass and fodder, a house and yard, a small piece of ground for potatoes and flax, which altogether may be estimated at £17 or £18 yearly.

[5]           The seed time for oats commences the 1st of April, and ends in the beginning of May; potatoes are planted about the same time; beans and pease are sown rather earlier; barley, from the 1st of May to the 1st of June; spring wheat in March, and that for winter in September or October, but of these we have very little.  The time of reaping is from the 1st of September to the middle of October.

[6]           Some attribute the introduction of this last mode to Mr Fairlie of Fairlie, in the management of his own and the Earl of Eglinton's estates.  Some say the alteration originated from Mr Snodgrass of Cuninghamhead; others affirm, that Mr Ralston, factor for Lord Eglinton, is the author of it, and that he first practised it in the culture of a large farm which he possesses.  Any, nay all of these gentlemen, are well qualified for making useful and important discoveries in the province of agriculture.  Whoever of them has the merit of this, it is abundantly evident, that the land by it must be still preserved in strength and vigour, especially when this circumstance is considered, that the tenants are strictly prohibited from laying dung upon ley, and bound to apply it only to the division immediately in tillage.  In every tack granted by the leases of Lord Eglinton's lands, the precise method of husbandry is described, and a strict regard to it secured by an high penalty in case of forfeiture, which in every instance has been demanded, and however reluctantly, paid.

[7]           Captain Cuninghame of Thornton, who, though still a young man, and when still much younger, was bred up to a military life in which, the less that is thought of mother earth the better, has, in the course of a few years, by unwearied application, attained a very uncommon degree of knowledge, both in the theory and practice of agriculture, as is evident from the present state of his lands, compared with that in which he found them, and the ease and affluence of his present circumstances, which, in a great measure, is owing to his own careful management.  Such an example of industry followed by success, affords and excellent lesson, and it would be injustice to thepublic to with–hold it,  Mr John Morrice, who having followed a seafaring life, in which, by knowing when to lay hold of the opportunities that Providence puts in every man's power one time or other, of bettering his condition, made an handsome fortune, with which he retired, and purchased the estate of Craig in this parish.  His first operation there was that of repairing the mansion–house and offices; but before these were finished, the house, either by accident or design, was set on fire and consumed.  Report says, that a servant, in absence of his master, having found access to the cellar, or place where the liquors were kept, embezzled them so much, that becoming afraid of a detection at his master's return, took this horrid method of concealing his crime.  Be this true or false, the very surmise should make all servants beware of indulging any one evil, however trivial it may appear; because one wicked deed leads on to another, till at last all sense of character is lost, and life itself falls in the issue a victim to depraved appetites.  On the [364] other hand, too much caution cannot be used in keeping temptation at a distance from that class of people whose minds are seldom, at the proper age, tutored to the love of virtue.  Mr Morrice, though he no doubt suffered a great loss in this event, did immediately begin the building of another house, the plan and situation of which he entirely made new; but had not the pleasure of seeing it fully completed, before death removed him to a better habitation.  The character which he left behind him, is that of an honest, sensible and benevolent man.  Mr Robert Morrice, his only brother, succeeded to the whole of his landed estate, and the greatest part of his money.  This gentleman, for several years, was engaged in the affairs of trade and commerce at Glasgow; from which, with an excellent character, he hath drawn considerable gains; these added to his inheritance, are more than sufficient for all the purposes of genteel living, which he enjoys in ease and elegance, to the great pleasure of all who know him, being endeared to them by his amiable manners, integrity, candour, humanity, benevolence, and the warmest friendship.  His early engagements in business estranged him to the affairs of the country; but his habits of application, and aptness to learn, have qualified him for directing the cultivation of his own estate, and for contributing his example to the benefit of those who need to be guided by the good conduct of them, whose advantages of education and improvement are such as do not fall to the lot of the many.  he has finished and fitted up in an elegant manner the house which his brother had begun, dressed the land about it in good taste, made a pleasant approach, several gravel walks, with other ornaments, added some conveniencies to the offices, and drained some fields that were spouty and sour.  The house of Craig is delightfully situated on the banks of the Irvine, which, after falling in a beautiful cascade, from a mill–dam on the south of the garden, appears again under the windows, in a surface smooth as glass.  The Frith of Clyde, the Rock of Ailsa, and the Hills of Arran, terminate the view on another quarter.

             In the immediate neighbourhood of this charming site on the NE is Carmel–bank, the property of Mr John Cuninghame, to whom this account is indebted for some hints of information.  His house stands on the bank of the Carmel, from which circumstance it has its present name; [365] formerly it was called the Mote.  There is a tumulus still remaining, near the Carmel–bank, which is certainly that More; whether it served in days of old as a sanctuary, an observatory for communicating alarm, or was a place where courts of justice were held, no intelligence can now be had.  The fosse, by which it had been surrounded, is still distinguishable, but no vestiges of building appear.  Mr Cuninghame's lands of Mote or Carmel–bank are in excellent order, and discover the true spirit of agriculture in the proprietor.  The friends of improvements have reason to wish that his territorial subject were more extensive.  Besides the example he affords of good management, he is likewise very useful to society, by preventing law–suits among the peasantry, to whom he readily communicates his best advice; and which they receive with confidence, because he for some years made law his study.

             Busby–castle stands a little beyond the last mentioned place, is now unroofed and falling into ruins.  A family of Barklays possessed it long.  The late Lord Glencairn sold it, with the lands belonging to it, to Miss Scott.  Coal was wrought in these lands, and may still be had at no great expense.  Concerning the Barklays of Busby, it is said, they had somehow incumbered the estate so much that they were obliged to wadset a great part of it.  One of the, among the last heirs, being in such a straitened condition that he could not find as much money as would buy a new coat, made offer to renew a wadset which was about to expire, and which had every appearance of giving the person to who the former one had been granted, all possible chance of becoming the real proprietor, if he would furnish Barklay with money to but a coat.  But the man imagined, that since the laird was become so poor, there was no reason to believe that he could prevent the term of redemption from expiring.  He was grievously mistaken, for Mr Barklay not only found from another quarter a new coat, but also as much money as redeemed the wadset.

             Mr William Ralston, factor to the Earl of Eglinton, lives in this parish, and possesses a large farm.  His attention to, and dispatch in business, is superior to that of most men.  The interest of an employer was never better served than Lord Eglinton's is by him; and with such ease does he manage his own affairs, that one would imagine he has none to manage; yet it is this gentleman who subsets at £5 the acre, the arable land of his [366] farm. and the pasture at £1 14 10.  Under the influence of such gentlemen, agriculture must flourish.  But as men are apt to overlook that which is familiar to their sight and constantly within their reach, it is necessary to call in the attention, and to fix it on those objects where it may find useful instruction.  With this view so much has been written of particular persons, that when Sir John Sinclair's publication shall be completed, and of which it is intended we shall all be possessed, the actual farmers among us may read in it what would otherwise too much escape them.

[8]           The price of a good hen is 1s 8d or 2s.  Sixpence, 8d and sometimes 9d is given for a dozen of eggs.  Every thing is risen in proportion, and all owing to the number of consumers employed in great manufactures, where their earnings can afford the use of the best vivers.  The labours of every man's hand are now abundantly rewarded.  But he who is confined to a fixed pecuniary income, must attend strictly to the rule of three; and unless his given number be considerable, his proportion will be small indeed.

[9]           This for a time was the mansion–house of the late Lady Eglinton.  Captain Ralston now lives in it, a gentleman who went to the East Indies with Colonel Fullerton, or in the Seaforth's regiment, and returned, after eight years absence, with a handsome fortune.  The estate of Warwick–hill now belongs to him.

[10]          The most remarkable clauses of this charter are the following.  “Holding and having all and whole the five pound lands of the village of Kilmaurs, with their pertinents, from us and our successors, Earls of Glencairn and Lords Barons of Kilmaurs, in free farm [ferm? indistinct] and heritage, and free burgage in barony for ever, by all the old righteous marches and divisions thereof, as they lay in length, breadth, in planes, hills, marshes, high–roads and foot paths, water–lakes, rivulets, meadows, pasture and pasture–lands, huntings, hawkings, fishings, peats and turf, mosses and mossrooms, coal and coal–heughs, orchards, gardens, fruit–trees, houses [looks like honies?] amd buildings, kilns, bake–houses, quarries and limestone smiddies, breweries and malting, broom–wood, and groves and shrubs, heights and hollows, arable and unarable land, with courts of justice, and their profits, amerciments and escheats, and with common pasture, and free ish [?] and entry, mills, multures, and sequels thereof, and with all and sundry liberties and commodities, profits, easements, and righteous pertinents thereof whatsoever, as well not named as named, as well under as above the earth, far or near.  Moreover, for us, our heirs and successors, exonerate, amat, minbut [last two words indistinct] and by the tenor of these presents, disclaim from us all use of buying or selling, of brewing or making malt, and of all other art or trade, viz of shoemakers, cutlers, waukers, skinners, carpenters, and woolsters, to be exercised within our said barony of Kilmaurs, except in our said burgh in barony, and the liberties thereof, viz. within the limits of the five–pound land thereof, as above written.  And further, that all and sundry vendible goods, viz. meal, bear, malt, wheat, corn, lint, wool, sheep, cattle, horse, flesh, fish, and whatsoever other merchandise is in our said barony, in all time coming, shall be first presented to the common market in our said burgh in barony foresaid.”  These particulars surely are peculiar, or very uncommon; so likewise is this clause, “And no woman, succeeding to an inheritance in the said burgh, shall marry without our special license.”

[11]          The two bailies are chosen annually, but their influence is inconsiderable, having no constables to assist in the execution of their authority; the disorderly and riotous therefore laugh at their threatened punishments.  This is not a defect in the constitution of the burgh, but a neglect hitherto of their own, in not applying to the quarter–session for an appointment of this kind.

[12]          The keen edge which they put in instruments requiring it, gave rise to a mode of speech which is yet in use through the country.  A man of acute understanding, and quickness in action, is said to be as sharp as a Kilmaurs whittle.  An old Presbyterian clergyman, in addressing himself to his audience, upon rising to speak after a young divine, who had delivered a discourse in flowery language, and English pronounciation [sic]; said, “My friends, we have had a great deal of fine English ware among us the day, but aiblins, my Kilmaurs whittle will cut as sharply as ony English blade;” meaning that the language of his own country would be better understood, and do more good.

[13]          No unusual customs prevail among the inhabitants of this parish.  There is one indeed common to the whole country, that of gathering people together, and entertaining them at considerable expense when they bury their dead.  However ill it can be afforded, nothing must be spared that custom has sanctioned.  By exploding this in a great measure, many would have it in their power to do more essential acts of kindness to their friends and relations when living.  There is little merit in helping to bury those whom we help to starve.  Nor do the deceased feel or enjoy any of the gratifications of vanity or misplaces veneration, which prompt to this custom.

 

 

Back

 

back to top
Return to Home page Go to About page Go to list of Articles Go to Bibliography Go to Links page Go to illustrated catalogue of Ayrshire milestones Go to Research Postings Search this site